The textiles of the Kuba kingdom (now the Democratic Republic of the Congo), represent the most intact and cohesive tradition in the region, and are exceptional for their artistic calibre, graphic sophistication, and complexity of style. The written story of Kuba cloth begins with encounters in the early 16th century between the coastal Congo kingdoms and European explorers who were impressed by the elegance and intricacy of Congo weaving. In the early 20th century the Kuba improvisational abstract aesthetic captivated the Western avant-garde, influencing fashion, fabric design, and the decorative arts. In addition to presenting full colour plates of up to 50 pieces, Designing Dynamism features illustrations of modern European textiles, contemporary woven Wesley Mancini fabrics, a main essay on Kuba design and its influence on modern and contemporary designers and an essay by Stephen Burks, the only African American to have won the Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt National Design Award in Product Design. A brief illustrated section focuses on the raised embroidery technique in detail.